A Love Letter to Puglia
A Land of timeless beauty, where sun drenched olive groves stretch to meet the glistening Adriatic Sea
Nestled in the heart of southern Italy, Puglia offers a magical blend of history, culture, and natural splendour. With its charming whitewashed villages, ancient trulli, and golden beaches, it was a beautiful location for our Heritage AW25 campaign “Love Letter to the Past“.
As part of our tribute this year to celebrate the inspiring women, artisans, and creatives who bring LILYA to life we're also drawn to the places that shape them. Through their stories and passions, they not only influence our collections, but also the way we live, create, and explore.
As part of our tribute this year to celebrate the inspiring women, artisans, and creatives who bring LILYA to life we're also drawn to the places that shape them. Through their stories and passions, they not only influence our collections, but also the way we live, create, and explore.
We’re thrilled to share some local tips from our dear friend, and Puglia resident, Nelly Divella, offering a glimpse into the places and traditions that make this region so special for her. Nelly is part of the family that founded Divella pasta in 1890 and she has a history deeply entrenched in the region. She’s a mother, surfer and adventurer, who enjoys travelling and living a healthy bohemian lifestyle. She's a free spirited beautiful soul who I met through friends at a Mother’s Day lunch when she lived in Bali, our sons attended school together and the rest is history. A few years back we stayed with Nelly and Enrico at “Nellyland” their lovingly restored and decorated trulli house in Cisternino. They showed us around the towns of Monopoli, Ostuni and Alberobello; we sailed and swam at Polignano a Mare and ate lots of great Italian food. With her deep love for Puglia, Nelly guided us to some of the region’s hidden gems and beloved spots, each infused with the authentic spirit of the land. Through her eyes, we discovered more than just a destination; we found the beating heart of Puglia. It was this beauty, warmth, and rich sense of history that inspired us to shoot our latest campaign in the region.
Nelly, what do you think is the best-kept secret about living in Puglia?
The lifestyle, of course! If you love nature, warm weather, healthy food, and the beach like I do, there’s no better place in Italy to be. Puglia is a long and narrow region with almost 800 kilometers of coastline. You can go to the beach in January, have a 24-degree day, swim in a deserted cove, and still find raw sea urchins on a bench by the sea, served with freshly made bread and house cheese. You can also wander through the beautiful countryside and get lost in one of the countless marvelous villages of the Valle d’Itria. The southern part of Salento is still wild, much like it was in the 1950s. Many Hollywood personalities have invested in beautiful masserias, restoring them while preserving the region’s untouched charm. Some inland towns still speak a dialect remarkably similar to Ancient Greek. Puglia remains authentic, and when the tourist season ends, locals like me look forward to enjoying our favourite spots again. I would recommend visiting in May or at the end of September and October to experience the real essence of the region, avoiding the peak summer crowds.
What are your absolute favourite places in Puglia to visit, and why?
We moved to Monopoli for a couple of years, and I have to say it’s one of the best places to be at the moment! It’s only 40 minutes from Bari, which is a great cultural city with interesting spots to explore, and it has an airport. Monopoli has all the amenities of a small city—cool shops, bars, and restaurants—but it’s still very livable, with no traffic and the most amazing beaches. Lately, I’ve fallen in love with Fasano, a small inland village just 15 minutes from Monopoli. It’s the perfect escape from high-season crowds, offering beautiful, lesser-known restaurants, charming boutiques, and cozy bars.
To truly experience Puglia, I recommend renting a car and driving all the way to the southeastern part of the region. Lecce, known as the baroque city, is a must-visit, along with Castro, Santa Maria al Bagno, and Monacizzo. The entire Valle d’Itria is stunning, and Grottaglie is home to the best ceramic artists. Everywhere you go, there’s something to taste, explore, and learn. Even after all these years, I still discover something new!
To truly experience Puglia, I recommend renting a car and driving all the way to the southeastern part of the region. Lecce, known as the baroque city, is a must-visit, along with Castro, Santa Maria al Bagno, and Monacizzo. The entire Valle d’Itria is stunning, and Grottaglie is home to the best ceramic artists. Everywhere you go, there’s something to taste, explore, and learn. Even after all these years, I still discover something new!
Can you share a hidden gem in Puglia that tourists often miss?
I would say the small villages along the Ionian Sea coast. If you drive north from Gallipoli toward Taranto, you’ll find kilometers of sandy, secluded beaches near Manduria and Lizzano. The northern side of Bari is also worth a visit. Trani and Giovinazzo are real gems and not as touristy as the southern part of the region.
Is there a particular town or village in Puglia that holds special meaning for you?
Cisternino, without a doubt! That’s where my trulli is and where I decided to invest when I was still very young. At the time, Puglia was very different—underdeveloped and untouched by mass tourism, with only niche visitors. I was mostly living in Australia, in Byron Bay, but I never missed a summer in Puglia.
In 2000, I spent a weekend at a friend’s trulli, and when I woke up, I felt an incredible energy in the place. It’s difficult to explain, but many people say the same thing when they visit for the first time! That experience led me to start looking for a trulli to buy. Cisternino is also considered a very spiritual and alternative place, long loved by writers and artists from around the world. It even has an ashram dedicated to Babaji, founded by the famous photographer Lisetta Carmi, who lived in Cisternino until she passed away in 2022 at the age of 98.
In 2000, I spent a weekend at a friend’s trulli, and when I woke up, I felt an incredible energy in the place. It’s difficult to explain, but many people say the same thing when they visit for the first time! That experience led me to start looking for a trulli to buy. Cisternino is also considered a very spiritual and alternative place, long loved by writers and artists from around the world. It even has an ashram dedicated to Babaji, founded by the famous photographer Lisetta Carmi, who lived in Cisternino until she passed away in 2022 at the age of 98.
I know you love the beach. What’s your go-to beach or coastal spot in the summer?
Summer is actually the worst time for me to enjoy my beloved Apulian sea, as it gets too crowded! I usually ride my Vespa along the rocky coast near Monopoli, past the Santo Stefano Castle, where I find a secluded spot to swim. After my daily swim, I head back into town for an aperitivo at Carlo V in Monopoli. My favourite beach club is Cala Diavolo, where a little blue door leads you to one of the most pristine swimming spots. Porto Ghiacciolo is another favourite, from where you can swim and explore the underground areas of Santo Stefano Castle.
Are there any traditional Puglian festivals or events that you love attending?
If you want to experience an authentic Apulian music festival, I recommend attending one of the luminarie festivals! They happen throughout the year and the lights are something truly special to witness.
What is your favourite Puglian dish or delicacy, and where should we go to try it?
The beauty of Apulian food is that there’s something for everyone, from vegetarians and vegans to seafood and meat lovers! One of my favourite dishes, aside from fresh raw fish, is fava bean purée with chicory. Another must-try is focaccia barese, the undisputed queen of Apulian street food. These are the first things I look forward to eating whenever I return home from my travels!
What advice would you give to someone visiting Puglia for the first time?
Avoid July and August! Rent a car at Bari airport and just drive. Don’t plan too much—stop wherever you feel drawn to, and I promise you won’t be disappointed. Every little town has its own magic!
Are there any new spots we need to know about—restaurants, fashion stores, or towns with a cool vibe?
Bari has recently seen the opening of several cool spots worth checking out! Macadam 120 is a great little concept store, and Piattini d’Avanguardia is a quirky ceramics shop where everything is handmade. Urban is my go-to vintage shop, while Inviti is a sartorial boutique where you can have made-to-order pieces tailored in beautiful fabrics. In Monopoli, you shouldn’t miss Dida & Camillo, and you must take home a bathing suit from Cheeky Pay, a local designer who has been creating sexy yet comfortable bikinis since the 1990s!
For dining, Giannino in Torre a Mare is an excellent choice for high-end seafood, while Renzina in Savelletri offers a local dining experience in a retro 1960s ambiance. Corazon and Pollastro, both in Fasano, are also favorites. For an authentic and casual seafood experience, head to one of the fish stalls in the Forcatella area near Savelletri! Aperitivo at Salsamenteria in Monopoli is a must, followed by a swim at Porto Ghiacciolo beach.
If you’re looking for a cool international vibe, don’t miss the Polifonic Festival, held on the last weekend of July! Thousands of people from around the world come to Puglia for this ultimate party scene, featuring renowned DJs. The festival is itinerant, taking place in stunning ancient venues like masserias, beach clubs, and even a cave!
For dining, Giannino in Torre a Mare is an excellent choice for high-end seafood, while Renzina in Savelletri offers a local dining experience in a retro 1960s ambiance. Corazon and Pollastro, both in Fasano, are also favorites. For an authentic and casual seafood experience, head to one of the fish stalls in the Forcatella area near Savelletri! Aperitivo at Salsamenteria in Monopoli is a must, followed by a swim at Porto Ghiacciolo beach.
If you’re looking for a cool international vibe, don’t miss the Polifonic Festival, held on the last weekend of July! Thousands of people from around the world come to Puglia for this ultimate party scene, featuring renowned DJs. The festival is itinerant, taking place in stunning ancient venues like masserias, beach clubs, and even a cave!
Discover our shoot "Love Letter to the Past" in Puglia here.